SE Rig Assembly

Last update, January 22, 2008

Assembly of the Vector Rig

SailSetc parts (SE) and

all from Midwest Model Yachting (MMY)

Part photos can be seen there.

Parts:

Main boom assembly

Jib boom assembly

Mast crane, MMY #116A

6 Rigging screws, MMY #131

2 spare eyelet screws 20 mm, MMY #44

Supplies:

Blue tape

Screws

Crimp sleeves

Rigging wire

Bowsies

Hooks

3 mm SS Nylock nuts

Tools:

Drill and bits

Drill Press, handy

Screwdrivers

Pliers

Crimper or small Vise Grips

Wire cutters

Settle in, you are going to be here for a while.

Putting the Vector Rig together is similar to what has been done for years. The rig can be raised on the deck without sails because the mounting and controls for the sails were prepared to accommodate this convenience. Installing and tuning the rig without the sails gives you time to prepare the environment properly and with better visibility and change them at the lake. Lastly, it is less handling of the sails.

The jib was designed as a unit with the boom and all controls installed but the sheetline. This allows the unit to be removed from the rig by two hooks and the sheetline connection. Likewise, the jibsail can be removed like the main from the boom and with the forestay still in the luff. The forestay can then be removed and installed on another sail with the small connecting loops still formed.

The minor complication is the pin for the mount on the bow fitting of the boom. A pin was used here to lessen abrasion on the downhaul line and allow the connecting loop to pass off the boom rather than replacement. This pin can be pushed back to release the forestay and the reverse when installing the connector. While it is new at this writing loosing of this pin is anticipated and a dab of CA glue on the outside of the pin should keep it from moving around with there is no pressure and rattling around in your vehicle.

Gooseneck Body Flange

Remove all the connections on the main boom down to the body of the gooseneck mount. Refer to the Rig Map Chart from the mast prep page or use the mark you made when mapping the mast. The top of the flange will go on this mark.

Alignment is important and all the parts are trying to go out the door with Vern. The body flange has a groove that is handy for drilling the four holes for the mounting screws. We did not use the screws provided in the kit because the heads were soft. #2 sheet metal screws 3/8" were used. Four staggered holes were drill with a #45 bit.

The body was then placed over the sleeve and held firmly to place the bit through one of the holes on the flange and drill into the sleeve. A screw was half inserted then another hole was drilled for one more screw. The last two were then drilled and the screws started. This seemed to keep stuff from moving. The body was removed and the sleeve slid onto the mast. The body was held to the sleeve to align the holes then rotated till track in the body and the mast were lined up...always checking that the holes match.

This was firmly held and one hole was drill into the mast while the track and the hole was lined up. A screws was fasten and just snug so not to strip the hole. Another was done like before and then the final two. All this to keep things aligned

The heel fitting was re-installed and the boom and vang fitted to the body.

Prep

Make sure the removable compression strut is standing from the ballast. A jib forestay cripple of string was prepared to assist in holding the mast in position for setting the shrouds. A hook at the top in the emergency hole is handy. A 66" piece of rigging wire was cut and secured to the crane with a crimp. A loop was made in the lower end for the string and bowsie that will adjust the backstay tension. This line will terminate at the hook to the deck plate.

The deck was leveled in the cradle to match the floor and the planet. A sheetrock T-Square is used here for the initial vertical setting. A tall shop mast boat beam divider is tape to the chainplate loosely at the mid spreader where alignment is checked. If you have someone to hold the mast while you adjust and tie off the forestay cripple and the backstay, things move along more easily.

Here the pin in the heel fitting is the same size as the mast step so at this point the mast will stand alone if properly aligned fore and aft. Nonetheless, a helper on the mast would be handy, as you move forward.

Shrouds

A 1/2" piece of wood stock was used to uniformly measure the bending of the wire that will hook to the chainplate. Nylock nuts are treaded on the eyelet screws. If you are going to be using the SE rigging parts, you might want to invest in a nut driver with a 5.5 mm socket for your toolbox. Gather your tools and get with it.

The mid shroud is done first because that is where the divider is. Run the body of the rigging screw up about a quarter of the way, snug down the wire, checking the divider (it can lean a bit toward you) and crimp it. Move to the other side and do the other mid shroud. Now fuss with this till the mast is centered on the divider with about 2.5 pounds of tension. The jumper shrouds should be unrestricted. Stand in front of the boat to get a perspective that it looks centered.

You can release your helper now. Install the upper shroud in the same manner, just snug. The lower shroud should be loose but not drooping. This shroud is a bend limiter and so you want some flexibility to allow it to go forward a bit when you want the foot of the main to flatten and at another time to allow shape into the panel when drive is needed.

Place about 1.5 pounds of tension on the backstay and increase the shroud tension to 3.5 pounds for the A heavy rig shown here. (2.5 pounds would be good for the light rig.) Lay the boat over in the cradle and begin adjusting for straight mast athwartships. There will be some fore and aft bend because of tension on the spreaders and the slight pulling of the backstay. Clockwise turns on the locking nut pulls the mast toward the shroud and counter-clockwise away when the body of the screw is snug. When all is set, it should be in the same place when you rig at the lake.

When you are happy with the location of the rigging screws on the chainplate, trim the bend length and close them just enough they will not come off during transport of the boat.

Section is incomplete

Word suspended till mid March

Install the Mainsail

Install the Jibsail

Complete the Post

Pre-Tune